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Papatya içeren kozmetiklerde apigenin miktar tayini / Determination of apigenin in cosmetics formulations containing chamomile

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2017

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Serim, Ecem

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Bezmialem Vakıf University

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Abstract

The relationship between humans and plants has been started since prehistoric times and humans benefit from the therapeutic effects of plants for thousands of years. The secondary metabolites that are produced by plants are important almost primary metabolites, besides they are used in various areas as raw materials. It is known that apigenin, which is a flavonone as a member of a sub group of the important secondary metabolite type flavonoids, has antimutagenic, antioxidant, antiviral, antifungal, antibacterial effects and various effects on skin mainly antienflammatory effect. Its chemical name is 5,7-dihydroxy-2-(4-hidroxyfenyl)-4H-1-benzopyren-4-one. Apigenin is found in so many plant species most widely in Matricaria chamomilla L. and other chamomile species. In nature we observe apigenin as gylcoside forms. Due to the positive effects on skin we observe Matricaria species in various cosmetic formulations. In this thesis a new high performance liquid chromatography method has been devepoled in order to investigate the existance and amount of apigenin in cosmetic products. In the method C 18 column (250 mm x 4,5 mm x 5,6 μm) were used as the stationary phase, ethanol: water (70:30, v/v) mixture was used as mobile phase with 1 mL/min flow rate. Isocratic elution was applied. The research was conducted with UV dedection at 225 nm wavelenght and column temperature was stabilized at 25 °C. The injection volume was 50 µL. The peak that belongs to apigenin was observed at 4,15 ± 0,4 min. The method was validated according to ICH criteria in terms of linearity, limit of dedection, limit of quantitation, selectivity, sensitivity, robustness, accuracy and precision. Limit of dedection and limit of quantitation values were 0,060 ve 0,2 μg/mL respectively, linearity range was 0,2-20 μg/mL. The relative standard deviation values of intra and interdays analyses were less than 1,64 %. The retention time was 4,15 ±0,4 minutes. The developed method was applied to the analysis of 13 different, totally 15 cosmetic products (body oil, face and body moisturising and cleaning creams, tooth paste, shampoo, hair cream, make up remover). Solid phase extraction technique was applied for sample preparation with C 18 cartridges. The recovery values for cosmetic products were between 81,6 – 93,4 %. It is foreseen that the method will be able to be used in order to carry out routine analysis, quality control and standardization of apigenin and will give light the way for developing similarily new analytical methods.
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Thesis (Master)--Bezmialem Vakıf University, Department of Pharmacognosy and Natural Products Chemistry, Istanbul, 2017

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Eczacılık ve Farmakoloji = Pharmacy and Pharmacology, Apigenin = Apigenin, Farmakognozi = Pharmacognosy, Flavonoidler = Flavonoids, Kozmetik endüstrisi = Cosmetic industry, Kozmetikler = Cosmetics, Papatyagiller = Daisy family

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